Welcome to the Vertical Relief Climbing Center blog! Your source for what's going on in our little corner of the climbing world.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

FREE Outdoor Climbing!!!

FREE Outdoor Climbing!!!

August 14, 8am- 4pm

Are you new to climbing? Or maybe not new to it but haven't been outside climbing yet or maybe just a few times? Are you looking for an opportunity to get outside and get some professional instruction? Well, we are extending an offer to you to come climb as a volunteer for FREE as part of an American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Certification Exam. Part of this exam is watching candidates guide and teach real clients outside on real rock. So, all you have to do is show up and have a fun day getting guided for FREE! If you are interested, please contact Chris Tatum at christatum@flagstaffclimbing.com. We will be taking sign-ups (sign-ups are limited). By volunteering your time, you are contributing to the standardization and professionalism of the profession of guiding rock climbing in the U.S.

We appreciate your help. SIGN UP! It's FREE!!!

--
Chris Tatum

Condor Strangled by Discarded Climbing Rope

Very sad. This is certainly an issue we Arizona climbers should think about being so close to an area where Condors live (Grand Canyon, Vermilion Cliffs, etc.). Condors have been known to travel great distances in a day and it is entirely possible for them to pass through Sedona or even here.

Check out the details here http://www.venturacountystar.com/news/2009/jul/16/condor-strangles-on-discarded-rope-near-fillmore/.

Search for Bryce Gillies

We regret to announce that the search for Bryce Gillies ended in tragedy. Our hearts go out to friends and family.

Thank you to all who helped with the rescue effort.

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Missing Person in the Grand Canyon: NPS needs your help!

MISSING PERSON
Grand Canyon National Park requests your assistance in locating this person (Bryce Gillies). He may have friends in the Flagstaff climbing community so please get the word around about him missing!!! You or someone you know may have the information NPS needs to find him.

Subject: BRYCE GILLIES


PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION
Age: 20
Height: 5’ 3”
Weight: 130
Hair: Brown
Eyes: Blue
Grand Canyon National Park Rangers are actively searching for Bryce Gillies, who reportedly started a three day hike in the Thunder River/Deer Creek area on Saturday July 18, 2009 and has not been seen or heard from since. Gillies was expected to return to Flagstaff where he is a student at NAU on Monday July 20, 2009.
If you have any information regarding this individual
Please Contact NPS Dispatch (928) 638-7805

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Trip Report: Sport Climbing At El Rito, New Mexico


Last week, Susan and I went to Northern New Mexico for a climbing trip to El Rito. The drive is about 6 1/2 hours from Flagstaff. Learn about the El Rito sport climbing area here.


The climbing is very unique. The rock is conglomerate, made up of of metamorphosed sand and mud, with smooth, rounded cobbles of all sizes sticking out with most of the holds being pockets in the rock that the cobbles left behind when some of them fell out. Many of the walls are overhanging, but with an over abundance of jugs, many routes as easy as 5.9 and 5.10. There are also some excellent, steep 5.11's and 5.12's.

Susan on a great 5.9 that was our first route of the trip. The rock may look like river bed choss but it climbs o-so-good!

I enjoyed the 5.11's and 5.12's the most. Many of the best are long and very continuous with really fun climbing. Pumpy too, no hard moves, you just have to hold on for the ride.

Biggest highlight of the climbing trip for me was climbing on the Rad Wall. Awesome 5.11's and 5.12's! We climbed some sweet routes on that wall.

For those interested in going there, check out the online El Rito sport climbing guidebook here.
We had some other excitement at El Rito besides the climbing. The weather was a bit crazy the first day we climbed and we got caught in one of the more exciting thundershowers I've been in. Around 2:30 pm we saw some really close lighting and decided to hike back down to camp and escape the ridge line that all the climbing was on. About half way down the trail we got pounded on hard by rain. It probably would have been pretty funny to watch us sprinting for camp in the mud, completely soaked, with lightning flashing everywhere around us. Exciting!

I sacrificed all by putting all of the metal (draws and such) in my pack and carrying the stick clip on the hike down in the storm so that Susan wouldn't get hit by lightning (I owed her because I convinced her to stay and climb right up until the really close lightning strikes-she had the better sense and was voting for leaving before it got bad).

Camping:



The camping is pretty sweet! FREE camping by a trickling creek really close to the cliffs on forest service road 44A. There is even a cool little canyon, with a couple small waterfalls in it, that you can walk to and cool off in on hot summer days (located at the end of forest service road 44a). Really nice.

Hot Springs:

On our way back home we just had to soak in the San Antonio Hot Springs, located in the Jemez Mountains, to sooth our aching muscles. I think that if you are a hot spring lover then you can't miss these! They are at the top of my list, as good as most of the hot springs on the east side of the Sierra's. Directions and more information here.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Trip Report: Durango Family Weekend

The Doskicz family just had a fun long weekend in Durango. Only 5 ½ hours away, nestled at the southern end of the San Juan mountains at an elevation of 6500 ft, Durango offers all kinds of fun outdoor activities, things for the kids to enjoy and a fun downtown scene. Mountain biking, climbing, trail running, river running, BMX track and more. This was our third family trip to Durango and we always find new fun things to do. Here are some highlights to help you plan your trip.

The Camping:

We camp at Junction Creek Campground. This is a managed campground that charges a fee, has lots of sites, nice toilets (key for family), 6 miles from downtown and a walk out of camp onto great trails that go on forever! Climbing is close by too! Check out the B loop of the campground. This loop has many sites close enough to the creek to hear it running. You can also camp ‘at large’ 8 more miles up Junction Creek road.

The Trails:

The Colorado trail starts at the Junction creek trail head just below the campground. It is 2.5 miles up to Gudy’s Rest, a nice rocky vista, offering views back down the canyon towards town. A few more miles up the trail you’ll pass the first of two intersections that lead into the canyon to the west. You can make a 15 mile lollipop loop out of this section from camp. The Colorado trail just keeps going and going… 250 miles to Denver. I’ve always have had a great time running on the section of trails out of Junction Creek. The scenery in the upper reaches of Junction Creek as you work up towards Kennebec Pass is breath taking. The surrounding peaks almost reach 13,000ft, rocky spires jutting up from the canyon floor, and on my Father’s day 25 mile run the skies were mostly blue and 100% beautiful. One day I hope to get shuttled to Molas Pass, just south of Silverton, and run/walk/crawl the 70miles of Colorado Trail back to camp.

Pick up a trail map at one of the outdoor shops in town. There are networks of trails all around town. We spent several hours biking the Animas River trail through town. Very fun, family friendly ride. We parked at the city rec center and rode south from there. The trail runs next to the Animas, crosses a few times on bridges and tunnels to keep you out of traffic. South of town the trail passes a city BMX track. None of us have ever been on one before and we spent an hour cruising on the course. I’m not sure who had more fun, me or the kids?


The Climbing:

This was the first time I climbed in Durango. I had a couple of hours to myself on Saturday afternoon and drove the 3 miles from camp to the Turtle Lake boulders. Incredible sandstone boulders scattered throughout a hill side of scrub oak. The trails feel like corridors through the trees unveiling amazing rock at every turn. There are some big boulders here. I climbed a couple on the Big West boulder that offered hard moves in the first ten feet and then easy 5 class climbing for another 25! It felt great to run around for an hour, getting scared and down climbing and traversing the boulders too big for my comfort. To get there go west on 25th street towards Junction Creek. When the road splits, go right towards turtle lake. You will see a boulder on your left, just feet from the road and a long pull out on the right. Park in the pull out.

There are some boulders just pass the campground off of Junction Creek road with some chalk on them. Looks like an area that does not see much traffic but looks like good climbing. East Animas is the most popular local crag. And for a taste of home check out the Golf Wall, overhanging limestone sport climbing. In the late 80’s Vertical Relief Founder Tomas Robison was doing the dirt bag climber thing in Durango and was one of the route developers at the Golf Wall. Plus, all the alpine climbing in the San Juan Mts. is a short drive north.

Friday, July 3, 2009

TerraCycle Video

I hope you are bringing all those used energy bar wrappers to Vertical Relief so that we can send them to TerraCycle. They are a company we all should try and support with our waste. They will recycle it into some rad stuff!!! Way better than sending our wrappers to landfills.

Check our their promotional video below.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Summertime BBQ and movie night at Vertical Relief

Summertime BBQ and movie night Saturday, July 11th at Vertical Relief. We will have the BBQ ready to go around 6:30 pm. Bring your own meal and beverage, cook it up and watch the new film Herakleia at about 8 pm.




Check out the trailer for the movie below.