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Monday, May 24, 2010

Women's Clinic Topic: Falling


Women’s Clinic: Falling Friday May 28

Fall:

Pronunciation: \ˈfȯl\

Function: verb Inflected Form(s): fell \ˈfel\; fall·en \ˈfȯ-lən\; fall·ing

: to descend freely by the force of gravity

This is falling according to Merriam-Webster: descending freely by the force of gravity. Let’s take a good look at this definition shall we. So there is some object at a height somewhere and it goes down. Easy enough. How about the next part: freely by the force of gravity. Well we all know our old friend gravity, what goes up must come down. I am pretty sure I learned that lesson trying to get cookies off the kitchen counter when I was 2. But what about the “freely” part? So freely means of one’s accord without restraint or reservation, essentially being okay with going down.

Now bring it all back together, from somewhere up high an object comes down on its own because of physics.

Simple stuff right? No big deal.

Unless you happen to be that object, and the somewhere up high is 10 feet above your last piece of pro or at the top of a 15foot boulder. All of the sudden freely succumbing to physics becomes a really big deal.

People climb for many different reasons. Every climber moves just a little differently of the rock. Everyone has their favorite climb. Each climbers experience climbing is as varied and different as each individual is from the next.

However the one thing we all have in common when we climb, is having to face the reality of falling and the outcome of that fall.

Because we are humans we really don’t want to fall off of things. In general when you find yourself faced with “descending freely” your survival instinct kicks in. A lot of people start to hear little voices in their head, saying all sorts of negative things like “You are really high and really close to falling.” or “There is no way you can make that move.” They sure can be convincing, those voices.

Usually, feeling scared, freaked out or like you have no control accompanies those comments and understandably so.

Okay so now we know what falling is and we know that most peoples’ reaction or response to the possibility of falling (don’t wanna) is instinctual. But we still want to rock climb- so now what?

Well we could climb super easy stuff only on top rope reducing the distance we may fall and convince ourselves that we are never going to fall. Or we may even lead climb a thing or two of course well within our physical abilities and again convincing ourselves that we are never going to fall. I am sure you can most likely get away with both of those things for a long while. If you climb often enough and long enough you are going to be faced with falling at some point in some manner. Plus if all you ever climb is what you can climb, then that is all you are ever going to be able to climb. Never pushing yourself mentally means never gaining physically.

Another solution is to be prepared for the falls when they come. Understanding what happens when you fall on lead, on gear, or bouldering. Knowing how to move your body in space, as well as knowing when you truly cannot fall.

There are things we learn, mental tools we can develop that will help to push past the fear. Tools that can change what those voices say changing the negative comments into positive ones. The number one thing we can do is to practice. Practice taking real life intentional falls. Practice makes perfect-right?!

So well that’s a lot. Huh? If we approach it with an open mind and take it all in strides (little baby steps is how I prefer it), it becomes very manageable.

On Friday, May 28, from 6-8pm, I will host a Women’s Clinic focusing on falling. We will be doing some discussing and hopefully some falling. So if you would like to join me for this please do.

Thanks

Sam

Monday, May 3, 2010

Kelly Canyon Report

Alright boulderers and sandstone enthusiasts...
better weather and warmer temps means...
Kelly Canyon season is almost here!!!

With its beautiful Coconino sandstone walls and its techy, slopey style of climbing its no wonder why Kelly Canyon is one of my favorite bouldering areas in N. Arizona.


Located just South of Flagstaff off of I-17, Kelly Canyon has something for everyone...
Lowballs, highballs, crimps, pockets, slopers, steep terrain and even slabs... you name it!!!

If you want to see my trip report and some photos of Kelly this past week check out:
http://jeffreypaulsnyder.blogspot.com/2010/05/kelly-canyon-report.html

CORE and Dyno Comp: Great end to a long winter

A big thank you from the Vertical Relief staff to all of you who came out for showing of the movie "Core" and the dyno competition. We had 71 people attend the movie which is pretty much a full house for us and 16 people compete in the friendly dyno competition. It was a great time watching the dynoers fling themselves all over the place, sticking some pretty amazing dynos and I, personally, enjoyed socializing with all the climbers of our great Flagstaff climbing community. Thanks for coming to the event everyone!

Dyno Competition Results:

1st: Kurt Hanover
2nd: John Dyer, Adrian Luginbuhl, Eric Williamson
3rd: Jack Hereford, Daniel Cole, Tony Chang, Allen Peters
4th: Rachael Farmer, Niels Carlson, Eamon Stack
5th: Jake Freidkin, James Brand, Joe Davidson
6th: Daniel Uno, Michael Scholten

-Jason
VR